Antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of ultrasonic extract from Stichopus japonicus

Objective: To investigate the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of an ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber, Stichopus japonicus, collected from Jeju Island. Methods: Antioxidant activity experiments were assessed by an electron spin resonance system and a cellular model of immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT) to determine its radical scavenging activity and protective effects against 2,2'-azobis (2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH)-induced oxidative stress. Anti-melanogenic activity of the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber was also examined using the melanoma cell model B16F10 and mushroom tyrosinase. Following the induction by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, the effects of the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber on intracellular tyrosinase activity, melanin content and the melanogenic protein expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1, and TRP-2) were examined. Results: The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber significantly scavenged 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and alkyl radicals [IC50:(0.924±0.035) and (0.327±0.006) mg/mL, respectively], as well as showed a protective effect against oxidative stress and attenuated generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species on AAPH-induced HaCaT cells, with no cytotoxicity (12.5-400 μg/mL). The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber also exhibited a tyrosinase inhibitory effect [IC50: (2.750±0.006) mg/mL]. On α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber (25-200 μg/mL) significantly inhibited not only melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, but also protein expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcriptional factor, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Conclusions: The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber shows antioxidant and anti-melanogenic potential and may be a natural candidate for anti-aging as well as a whitening agent in the cosmeceuticals industry.

Antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of ultrasonic extract from Stichopus japonicus

To investigate the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of an ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber, Stichopus japonicus, collected from Jeju Island. Methods: Antioxidant activity experiments were assessed by an electron spin resonance system and a cellular model of immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT) to determine its radical scavenging activity and protective effects against 2,2'-azobis (2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH)-induced oxidative stress. Antimelanogenic activity of the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber was also examined using the melanoma cell model B16F10 and mushroom tyrosinase. Following the induction by ?-melanocytestimulating hormone, the effects of the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber on intracellular tyrosinase activity, melanin content and the melanogenic protein expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1, and TRP-2) were examined. Results: The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber significantly scavenged 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and alkyl radicals [IC50: (0.9240.035) and (0.3270.006) mg/mL, respectively], as well as showed a protective effect against oxidative stress and attenuated generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species on AAPHinduced HaCaT cells, with no cytotoxicity (12.5-400 ug/mL). The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber also exhibited a tyrosinase inhibitory effect [IC50: (2.7500.006) mg/mL]. On ?-melanocytestimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber (25-200 ug/mL) significantly inhibited not only melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, but also protein expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcriptional factor, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Conclusions: The ultrasonic extract of red sea cucumber shows antioxidant and anti-melanogenic potential and may be a natural candidate for anti-aging as well as a whitening agent in the cosmeceuticals industry.

Brewer’s rice - A potential substrate for cosmeceutical bio-ingredient production by solid state fermentation using Aspergillus oryzae

Aims@#Brewer’s rice is one of the by-products from rice processing industry that is rich in bioactive compounds but currently underutilized. Exploitation of agro-industrial by-products as substrates in solid-state fermentation processes provides value-addition to these underutilized by-products. The purpose of this research is to evaluate the potentiality of brewer’s rice as a source of cosmeceutical or cosmetic bio-ingredient by utilizing solid-state fermentation process. @*Methodology and results@#Brewer’s rice was submitted to solid-state fermentation with Aspergillus oryzae from MARDI’s Collection of Functional Food Culture (CFFC). Extracts of unfermented and fermented brewer’s rice were later subjected to determination of biological content and biological activities, as well as measurement of their phenolic and organic acids content. The extract of fermented brewer’s rice exhibited an increase in total phenolic and total flavonoid content and showed enhanced 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical-scavenging and ferric-reducing activities. Additionally, it was also found that the tyrosinase and elastase inhibition activities of fermented brewer’s rice extract is significantly higher with nearly 7- and 57-fold, respectively, than the unfermented extract. Ferulic and kojic acid – two of the most important compounds in cosmeceutical formulations, were also detected in fermented brewer’s rice extract. @*Conclusion, significance and impact of study@#Antioxidant, anti-pigmentation and anti-wrinkle properties of brewer’s rice were successfully enhanced by fermentation with A. oryzae. Fermented brewer’s rice extract has high potential to be developed as functional bio-ingredient for cosmeceutical as well as nutraceutical products.

Investigation on Acne Patients' Use and Awareness of Cosmetics for Acne / 대한피부과학회지

BACKGROUND: Some cosmetics used for treating acne are considered as cosmeceuticals. Consequently, patients with acne are now more likely to perceive such products as actual treatments. OBJECTIVE: We aimed to investigate the awareness and use of cosmetics for acne and to compare them with hospital treatments in terms of efficacy and safety. METHODS: We surveyed patients who presented at the National Medical Center for acne treatment. We collected data on demographics, hospital treatments, kinds of cosmetics for acne, awareness and use of cosmetics for acne, efficacy and adverse effects (cosmetics for acne vs. hospital treatments), and overall patient satisfaction. RESULTS: Of 101 enrolled participants, 94 (mean [SD] age, 25.6 [6.5] years; 59 women) were analyzed. Seventy-one (75.5%) patients used cosmetics for acne. Only 30% perceived that cosmetics for acne were insufficient to treat acne, whereas 45~55% deemed cosmetics for acne as applicable replacements for topical and oral treatments. The participants rated their improvement to be significantly better with hospital treatments than with cosmetics for acne (much improved: 45.1% vs. 2.8%, became worse: 1.4% vs. 8.5%, p<0.01). There were significantly fewer adverse events after hospital treatments than after use of cosmetics for acne. The overall satisfaction scores were significantly higher with hospital treatments than with cosmetics for acne. CONCLUSION: Patients with acne mistakenly believe that cosmetics for acne can replace topical and oral treatments. Dermatologists should disseminate information and educate patients about the proper treatments for acne. Moreover, it is desirable to exclude the word “acne” from the name of cosmeceuticals.

Topical peptides as cosmeceuticals.

Peptides are known to have diverse biological roles, most prominently as signaling/regulatory molecules in a broad variety of physiological processes including defense, immunity, stress, growth, homeostasis and reproduction. These aspects have been used in the fi eld of dermatology and cosmetology to produce short, stable and synthetic peptides for extracellular matrix synthesis, pigmentation, innate immunity and infl ammation. The evolution of peptides over the century, which started with the discovery of penicillin, has now extended to their usage as cosmeceuticals in recent years. Cosmeceutical peptides may act as signal modulators of the extracellular matrix component, as structural peptides, carrier peptides and neurotransmitter function modulators. Transdermal delivery of peptides can be made more effective by penetration enhancers, chemical modifi cation or encapsulation of peptides. The advantages of using peptides as cosmeceuticals include their involvement in many physiological functions of the skin, their selectivity, their lack of immunogenicity and absence of premarket regulatory requirements for their use. However, there are disadvantages: clinical evidence for effi cacy is often weak, absorption may be poor due to low lipophilicity, high molecular weight and binding to other ingredients, and prices can be quite high.

Cosmecéuticos Indispensable para otorrinolaringólogos y cirujanos plásticos faciales / Cosmeceuticals Essential for facial plastic surgeons and otolaryngologists

Objetivos: Definir el término cosmecéutica, presentar los ingredientes activos más comúnmente utilizados, sus indicaciones y ventajas. Evaluar nuestros productos para el cuidado y rejuvenecimiento de la piel, teniendo en cuenta variables como pigmentación, líneas de expresión y ritides finas, hidratación, brillo y envejecimiento. Diseño: Serie de Casos Materiales y métodos: Se realizó un estudio retrospectivo mediante análisis fotográfico ciego de 50 casos de rejuvenecimiento facial usando únicamente cosmecéutica seleccionados al azar durante el periodo Agosto 2015 ­ Julio 2016. Se utilizó un régimen cosmecéutico personalizado incluyendo: limpieza y exfoliación, hidratación, reparación, despigmentantes, antienvejecimiento y fotoprotección, dos veces al día durante 6 meses. Las variables evaluadas mediante una escala semi-cuantitativa de 5 puntos fueron: pigmentación, ritides finas, envejecimiento en general, hidratación, brillo cutáneo y mejoría estética. La prueba no paramétrica de Wilcoxon fue seleccionada para evaluar significancia estadística. Resultados: Las lesiones pigmentadas, las ritides finas y el envejecimiento en general disminuyeron 32.7, 26.3 y 22%, respectivamente. Alcanzando significancia estadística (p<0,05). El brillo y la hidratación mejoraron en 47.5 y 55.3%, respectivamente. Se encontró una mejoría estética del 58%. La escala analógica visual reveló un rejuvenecimiento del 16,5% (p=0,0018). Conclusiones: La incorporación de cosmecéuticos en la práctica de la otorrinolaringología y la cirugía plástica facial mejora la apariencia de los pacientes, rejuvenece la piel y puede contribuir potenciando los resultados posoperatorios.

Objectives: To define cosmeceuticals, introduce common active ingredients, their indications and advantages, and to assess our skin care protocol anti-aging effects, improving dyschromia, wrinkles, hydration and other signs of aging. Design: Case Series Materials and methods: We developed a retrospective photographic analysis of 50 facial rejuvenation patients using our cosmeceuticals. A blind photographic analysis of dyschromia, fine wrinkles, overall aging, skin light reflection, hydration and aesthetic improvement using 5-point grading scales was carried out. The nonparametric Wilcoxon test was selected to evaluate statistical significance. A tailored cosmeceutical regimen including: cleaning and exfoliating, moisturizing, repairing, pigment lightening, anti-aging formulations and photo-protection was applied twice a day for 6 months. Results: Dyschromia, fine wrinkles and overall aging decreased 32.7, 26.3 and 22 percent, respectively. Reaching statistical significance (p<0,05). Luminosity, hydration and overall aesthetic change improved 47.5, 55.3 and 58 percent, respectively. The visual analog aging severity scale revealed a statistically significant 16,5% of rejuvenation (p=0,0018). Conclusions: Incorporating cosmeceuticals in the facial plastic surgery practice can promote a better overall patient experience by rejuvenating the skin, hastening postoperative healing and reducing common postoperative side effects.

Dermocosmetic care for rosacea

ABSTRACT Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that primarily affects the central area of the face; it is characterized by erythema, papules, pustules, nodules, and telangiectasia. This condition arises between 30-60 years of age, and it usually occurs in fair-skinned people. Rosacea is characteristic of sensitive skin, as it is a disease marked with punctuated phases of exacerbated signs and symptoms that alternate with periods of remission. Humans have long incorporated cosmetics in their daily habits; given the scientific and technological developments that emerged in cosmeceuticals or dermocosmetics, the current cosmetic options are now used for much more than adornment or cleansing. The purpose of cosmetic care in rosacea is to restore the balance of the skin, while reducing the underlying inflammation, sensitivity, and dehydration. This review aims to highlight the various dermocosmetic care options that can reduce discomfort for and bring benefit to patients who have reactive and sensitive skin associated with rosacea. Additionally, this report discusses how pharmacists - public health agents - can and should offer counseling and support interventions to patients once oral or topical medications are dispensed to this pathology.

Treating cutaneous aging with patented technologies.

1. Introduction Cutaneous aging is a multifactorial process affecting different constituents of the skin (Reddy and Gilchrest 2011). During aging, distribution of subcutaneous fat is altered. The subcutaneous fat is significantly lost from the dorsum of the hand, face and shin, but accumulates in the waist or thigh (Kligman et al. 1985; Farage et al. 2007). In the epidermis, signs of aging include lowering of the levels of collagen IV and collagen VII at the basement membrane, flattening of the rete ridge, thinning of the epidermis, and lowering of the levels of ceramides, free fatty acids, squalene and epidermal cholesterol (El-Domyati et al. 2002; Hayashi et al. 2003; Sandby-Moller et al. 2003; Neerken et al. 2004; Fore 2006). In the dermis, aging leads to fragmentation of elastin, an increase in collagen degradation, and a decrease in production of dermal collagen, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (Giacomoni et al. 2000; El-Domyati et al. 2002; Carrino et al. 2003; Fore 2006; Varani et al. 2006; Farage et al. 2007). Owing to atrophy of the supporting dermis, the skin hydration level and skin repair capacity are reduced (Farage et al. 2009). Elderly people, therefore, are predisposed to susceptibility to skin injuries and disorders (including altered wound healing, immunologic changes, dermatologic diseases, and skin cancers). Along with the increasing understanding of the mechanism of cutaneous aging, opportunities have been brought to research into anti-aging treatment. In an earlier study, oral administration of isotretinoin was found not only to improve skin thickness, skin colour, skin elasticity and skin tone, but also to reduce pigmented lesions, mottled hyperpigmentation and wrinkles (Hernandez-Perez et al. 2000). More recently, caloric restriction has been reported to prevent or delay age-associated histomorphological changes by reducing the age-related increase in the depth of the epidermis, dermis, and fat layer, and by increasing the collagen percentage, elastic fiber fraction area and dermal fibroblast population (Bhattacharyya et al. 2005). These are only few examples of the large number of works devoted to skin rejuvenation over the past 20 years. More examples of approaches explored for treatment of aging skin are listed in table 1. These approaches can be categorized into cosmetic procedures and cosmeceutical interventions. Many of them have been evaluated clinically for skin treatment (Beer 2011; Blyumin-Karasik et al. 2011; Yokoyama et al. 2014). Apart from the advances reported in the scientific literature, innovations reported in the patent literature are also worth noticing. As these innovations may not have been documented in scientific journals due to the issue of intellectual property, patent publications are a rich knowledge source complementary to the conventional scientific literature. 2. Cosmeceuticals in the patent literature As far as the patent literature on cutaneous aging is concerned, the number of patents on cosmeceuticals much exceeds that on cosmetic procedures. This may be because cosmeceuticals in general are more convenient for self-application and are less invasive (McCullough and Kelly 2006). This gives cosmeceuticals a higher practical potential. In 2011, a patent was published on a composition comprising a dill extract, a blackberry leaf extract, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier (Kizoulis et al. 2011). In vitro studies showed that the blackberry extract stimulates tropoelastin production (Kizoulis et al. 2011). Compared to a composition containing either a dill extract or a blackberry leaf extract, the one containing

Anti-Oxidative Activity of Pectin and Its Stabilizing Effect on Retinyl Palmitate

The purpose of this study was to examine the anti-oxidative activity of pectin and other polysaccharides in order to develop a cosmeceutical base having anti-oxidative effects towards retinyl palmitate (RP). The anti-oxidative stabilizing effects of pectin and other polysaccharides on RP were evaluated by DPPH assay and then the stabilizing effect of pectin on RP was examined as a function of time. Among the polysaccharides we examined, pectin exhibited a considerably higher anti-oxidative activity, with an approximately 5-fold greater DPPH radical scavenging effect compared to other polysaccharides. The DPPH radical scavenging effect of pectin increased gradually with increasing concentrations of pectin. At two different RP concentrations, 0.01 and 0.1% in ethanol, addition of pectin improved the stability of RP in a concentration dependent manner. The stabilizing effect of pectin on RP was more effective for the lower concentration of RP (0.01%, v/v). Further, degradation of RP was reduced following the addition of pectin as measured over 8 hours. From the results obtained, it can be suggested that pectin may be a promising ingredient for cosmeceutical bases designed to stabilize RP or other pharmacological agents subject to degradation by oxidation.

Mecanismos do envelhecimento cutâneo e o papel dos cosmecêuticos / Mechanisms of skin aging and the role of cosmeceuticals

A maioria dos mecanismos moleculares e celulares envolvidos no envelhecimento cutâneo intrínseco ou cronológico e extrínseco ou fotoenvelhecimento constitui objeto de muitos estudos de excelente qualidade e, portanto, são bem conhecidos. Contudo, existem aspectos ainda não completamente elucidados e até controversos. Por outro lado, a busca de tratamentos para prevenção, controle e reversão do envelhecimento, particularmente o fotoenvelhecimento, tem despertado muito interesse, nem sempre acompanhado do rigor científico necessário. Muitos ativos ditos antienvelhecimento são incorporados aos chamados cosmecêuticos que constituem uma classe de produtos tópicos intermediários entre os cosméticos e os medicamentos ou drogas. Como esses produtos são registrados como cosméticos, não há uma exigência rigorosa em relação aos estudos clínicos de eficácia e segurança, ou seja, são poucos os estudos controlados e randomizados. Em geral, eles não causam eventos adversos sérios, já que são utilizadas concentrações baixas dos ativos, muito aquém das que demonstram eficácia nos estudos pré-clínicos. Muitos, inclusive, não têm ação que comprovadamente possa interferir em qualquer dos mecanismos conhecidos do envelhecimento cutâneo. Não há como excluir a possibilidade de que tenham alguma utilidade, nem tampouco afirmar que possam produzir os resultados prometidos pela indústria cosmecêutica. Depende do bom senso dos dermatologistas decidir quando e qual produto indicar, assumindo com honestidade o real benefício esperado.Este artigo apresenta uma revisão dos mecanismos conhecidos do envelhecimento cutâneo e das principais substâncias ativas dos cosmecêuticos colocados no mercado nos últimos anos.